Published on VMagazine
Words by Evan Skovronsky
View piece here
Words by Evan Skovronsky
View piece here
Before getting into the show, I’d like to add some praise to Véronique Nichanian’s already accoladed career. Hermès Menswear was like a stable friend. You could always rely on them, and they constantly delivered what they needed to. Throughout the waves of logo mania, in the 1990s and then 2010s, Nichanian spearheaded minimalism, essentially inventing quite luxury. She never gave in to microtrends, and in a decade of duck duck goose with Creative Directors, it was impressive she steered the brand for so long.
The show was classic Hermès and classic menswear. It was faithful to the brand Nichanian has spent crafting since 1988. Like many shows this season, the suiting got tighter. Pants slimmed in and jackets have tight waists and broad shoulders.
The show felt familiar, and that was on purpose. Nichanian littered in looks from the earlier years of her career, proving the longevity her designs and Hermès has, (as well as resale value, as we know Birkin’s never depreciate). However coral shearling coats and mustard yellow nylon jackets were something new, an unexpected moment Nichanian left us with as she passed the torch (to Grace Wales Bonner none the less).
Being it’s Hermès, we need to talk about the leather, the place where Nichanian has always shone. Unlike the previous collection, leather takes over, appearing in almost every look. Crocodile pants, leather jumpsuits, shearling lined coats, even shirts all feature the textile. It may seem like nothing innovative, but like all Hermès pieces, the devil is in the details.
The show ended like many do. After the finale, nearly a dozen screens played Nichanian’s final bows from seasons past. And as fast as it started, Nichanian came and took her last bow. And to that I say back, farewell and thank you.